"Get bent and sling some string" with us this fall!----<*)}}}}}>< Your Susquehanna River fishing guide Steve Hancock
Susquehanna Fly and Spin Guide Service:
http://susquehannaflyandspin.com/
Thursday, September 23, 2010
Susquehanna Fly and Spin Guide Service Fishing Report: Sept 23,2010
The Susquehanna River was low and clear, but the fishing flood gates were open for my anglers today as they boated lots of smallmouth bass and two walleyes on various lure presentations. If you want to get in on the fall bite Give us a call to get in on the action!
"Get bent and sling some string" with us this fall!----<*)}}}}}>< Your Susquehanna River fishing guide Steve Hancock
Susquehanna Fly and Spin Guide Service:
http://susquehannaflyandspin.com/
"Get bent and sling some string" with us this fall!----<*)}}}}}>< Your Susquehanna River fishing guide Steve Hancock
Susquehanna Fly and Spin Guide Service:
http://susquehannaflyandspin.com/
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
Mastering the Jig for River Smallmouth Bass (SFM, April 2010)
From the April 2010 issue of Susquehanna Fishing Magazine:
http://susquehannafishing.com/
By Bryan Wilhelm
In the first and second editions of Susquehanna Fishing Magazine were articles on jig fishing. The first edition had Winter Fishing for Smallmouth Bass and the second edition was Smallmouth Candy. Both detailed the attributes of jigs… plus how to select and fish jigs in rivers. This third and last in the series of articles gives greater detail of the advanced jigs (what I call Master Jigs) and how and when to fish them. In addition, this third article reviews and summarizes all three installments. When you have read all three you will have a better understanding of what jigs to use in what situations for best fishing success.
There are three additional jigs that I would like to introduce…
First is what I call the flippin and pitchin (f&p) jig.
Flippin and pitchin jig is shown above.
This f&p jig is a very effective jig to use anytime of the year. The one shown is dressed to emulate a crawfish. Rabbit strip claws, rubber legs, and large eyes are key trigger features. A multi-stranded weed guard is one of these jigs features. It comes in a wide selection of weights from 1/8 through 2 ounces. You should select a size and weight that maintains bottom contact but does not anchor the bait in the current.
Second is the river jig.
The river jig
The river jig is again made to appear like a crawfish. The Erie head shape sets this jig in the defense posture while fishing. It can be made in many weights from 1/8 through ¾ ounces, 1/8 and ¼ ounce versions are most popular. It is dressed with feathers to suggest claws, has eyes, and includes latent features such as craft fur (which I call Bozo Hair) and flash to suggest movement. The craft fur retains scent extremely well. Sometimes bass will nose or bump a lure. If the lure is scented… they will commit and bite.
The third jig is a finesse jig.
I call this my jig. It weighs just 1/16 ounce. I always fish this jig on a short (4½’ to 5’), fast action spinning rod with 4 pound test mono. It is the most difficult jig to fish because of its light weight. Even with the slightest breeze you will have a bow in your line. Watch the bow for a subtle tick…. then set the hook. Most times you will not feel the take. This jig is made to fish soft plastic, like 4” do-nothing worms or 3” grubs. Select color and translucency of plastic to suit conditions.
Summary –
Jig selection:
• Match the jig color to the bottom color of the river you are fishing.
• Use brighter colors in stained water and darker muted colors in clear water.
• Fish muted colors and low flash when fish are neutral. Use bright flashy jigs when the bass are aggressive.
• Add minnows or leaches when fish are neutral and reluctant to bite.
• Fish the lightest jig for prevailing conditions (depth, current and wind).
Preparation and Presentation:
• Wash your hands before handling lures… rewash several times each day.
• Fish with 5½ to 6½ foot medium-to-fast action graphite spinning rods for light jigs and 7 foot flippin sticks with 30 pound test braid for heavy cover.
• Tie a 6 foot leader of Fluorocarbon line to super braids with back to a back uni-knot.
• Use as light a line as possible … open water: 4 lb test, heavy cover: 20 lb test and greater.
• Use scents
• Fish jigs in close, and maintain loose contact to reduce snags and detect takes.
• Immediately strike when you detect a fish. Wait to feel them and it’s all over. Smallmouth will pop it and drop it in a heartbeat.
• The most important thing is… when your lure hits the water, maximize your concentration. Think of nothing but what is going on down there. Focus on the other end of your line.
I sincerely hope this information helps make you a better fisherman.
Tight lines… Bryan Wilhelm
Bryan Wilhelm is a multi-species light tackle angler with many years experience both as a professional and a sportsman on the lower Susquehanna River. His zeal for fishing grows each passing year. We look forward to him sharing his experiences.
http://susquehannafishing.com/
By Bryan Wilhelm
In the first and second editions of Susquehanna Fishing Magazine were articles on jig fishing. The first edition had Winter Fishing for Smallmouth Bass and the second edition was Smallmouth Candy. Both detailed the attributes of jigs… plus how to select and fish jigs in rivers. This third and last in the series of articles gives greater detail of the advanced jigs (what I call Master Jigs) and how and when to fish them. In addition, this third article reviews and summarizes all three installments. When you have read all three you will have a better understanding of what jigs to use in what situations for best fishing success.
There are three additional jigs that I would like to introduce…
First is what I call the flippin and pitchin (f&p) jig.
Flippin and pitchin jig is shown above.
This f&p jig is a very effective jig to use anytime of the year. The one shown is dressed to emulate a crawfish. Rabbit strip claws, rubber legs, and large eyes are key trigger features. A multi-stranded weed guard is one of these jigs features. It comes in a wide selection of weights from 1/8 through 2 ounces. You should select a size and weight that maintains bottom contact but does not anchor the bait in the current.
Second is the river jig.
The river jig
The river jig is again made to appear like a crawfish. The Erie head shape sets this jig in the defense posture while fishing. It can be made in many weights from 1/8 through ¾ ounces, 1/8 and ¼ ounce versions are most popular. It is dressed with feathers to suggest claws, has eyes, and includes latent features such as craft fur (which I call Bozo Hair) and flash to suggest movement. The craft fur retains scent extremely well. Sometimes bass will nose or bump a lure. If the lure is scented… they will commit and bite.
The third jig is a finesse jig.
I call this my jig. It weighs just 1/16 ounce. I always fish this jig on a short (4½’ to 5’), fast action spinning rod with 4 pound test mono. It is the most difficult jig to fish because of its light weight. Even with the slightest breeze you will have a bow in your line. Watch the bow for a subtle tick…. then set the hook. Most times you will not feel the take. This jig is made to fish soft plastic, like 4” do-nothing worms or 3” grubs. Select color and translucency of plastic to suit conditions.
Summary –
Jig selection:
• Match the jig color to the bottom color of the river you are fishing.
• Use brighter colors in stained water and darker muted colors in clear water.
• Fish muted colors and low flash when fish are neutral. Use bright flashy jigs when the bass are aggressive.
• Add minnows or leaches when fish are neutral and reluctant to bite.
• Fish the lightest jig for prevailing conditions (depth, current and wind).
Preparation and Presentation:
• Wash your hands before handling lures… rewash several times each day.
• Fish with 5½ to 6½ foot medium-to-fast action graphite spinning rods for light jigs and 7 foot flippin sticks with 30 pound test braid for heavy cover.
• Tie a 6 foot leader of Fluorocarbon line to super braids with back to a back uni-knot.
• Use as light a line as possible … open water: 4 lb test, heavy cover: 20 lb test and greater.
• Use scents
• Fish jigs in close, and maintain loose contact to reduce snags and detect takes.
• Immediately strike when you detect a fish. Wait to feel them and it’s all over. Smallmouth will pop it and drop it in a heartbeat.
• The most important thing is… when your lure hits the water, maximize your concentration. Think of nothing but what is going on down there. Focus on the other end of your line.
I sincerely hope this information helps make you a better fisherman.
Tight lines… Bryan Wilhelm
Bryan Wilhelm is a multi-species light tackle angler with many years experience both as a professional and a sportsman on the lower Susquehanna River. His zeal for fishing grows each passing year. We look forward to him sharing his experiences.
Carp, the Freshwater Bone Fish (SFM, March 2010)
From the March issue of Susquehanna Fishing Magazine:
http://susquehannafishing.com/
By Brad Wilson
In recent years, the common carp (member of Cyprinus Carpio) has, in this country, become a popular game fish. Carp have gone from a bottom-feeding “junk” fish to what many have named “the freshwater bone fish.” This is due to its feeding manner… head in the mud, tail in the air. They do this mainly in shallow water along shore lines or shallow seams in rivers. Carp grow rapidly (world record carp 82 lbs, 3 oz, caught in Romania), and attain sexual maturity about their third year. Carp have even been known to live more than 40 years in captivity. Some people think carp are one of the easier fish to catch… this couldn't be farther from the truth. Carp have excellent hearing, as well as eyesight, making them a challenging pursuit.
In the past several years I have made it a point to visit a local river that holds an excellent population of some big carp. There's something really exciting about wading upstream behind a mud cloud being made by a feeding carp. Now is the time to put the same stalking tactics used for trout to work. One bad move or kicking of a stone will result in a rocketing carp making a getaway! The ideal position to cast from is either side of the fish, and remember: “low and slow!” Stay well behind and make sure to keep the leader and line from splashing down above the fish. That's why fishing off to the sides is an important thing to do. Polarized glasses are highly recommended. Being able to see the fish will drastically improve your success rate.
An 8-9 wt fly rod with a nice sized reel loaded up with plenty of backing will do. I like to use an 8 ft leader, 10-12 lb, and I use a small split shot about a foot or two above the fly. This makes sure the fly will settle down on the bottom. Clothing is also very important; wear a drab shirt and hat, and leave the bright attire at home. Most of the time you will be only 10-15 ft away, and remember carp have great eyesight!
Now for the flies I use with very good success. My first choice is a fly I started using several years ago, after acquiring several nice 12-16” eel skins from a tyer at one of the fly-tying symposiums. Eel skin is great for many fly applications due to its flowing, life-like movement when wet and it's smell. Carp, besides having great sight and hearing, also have an excellent sense of smell. If you can find eel skin (it is available, but you really have to look), you might want to try this fly I have named “carp sushi.”
Hook: I use Mustad 3366 #6-8, but any short-shanked strong hook will work
Thread: Black 6/0
Tail: Two V-shaped slips of eel skin (to make the eel tie on easier, moisten skin where it will be tied on)
Under Body: Several wraps of lead wire
Body: Bill's Wooly Bugger maribou chenille (Bill Skilton – USA Flies)
Wings: Two more eel skin slips, half the length of tail
Collar: Brown hackle
When wet, this fly has great life-like movement. Even at rest it is effective due to the smell of the eel skin. If you can't find eel skin, you can substitute this fly with several other “hot” carp flies, another being “Clouser's Darter” pattern (designed by Bob Clouser).
Hook: TMC 811S
Thread: Olive 6/0
Body/tail: Orange dyed calf's tail
Over-wing: Gold flashabou and red krystal flash
Wing: Olive calf's tail
Eyes: Black lead barbel eyes
My prediction for the future of fly-fishing for carp is bright, due to the challenge of landing a 10+ lb fish on a fly, as well as the fact that carp can be found in most rivers, ponds, and lakes. So, get out there and remember, “low and slow”, and hang on tight when hooking those freshwater bones! Much luck!
Brad Wilson has been fly fishing and tying in the mountains of Pennsylvania for 18 years. Two fly tying mentors had a big influence on his tying more than anyone, George Harvey and Paul Jorgensen. He has had several articles published and plans on continuing to write about the sport he loves.
http://susquehannafishing.com/
By Brad Wilson
In recent years, the common carp (member of Cyprinus Carpio) has, in this country, become a popular game fish. Carp have gone from a bottom-feeding “junk” fish to what many have named “the freshwater bone fish.” This is due to its feeding manner… head in the mud, tail in the air. They do this mainly in shallow water along shore lines or shallow seams in rivers. Carp grow rapidly (world record carp 82 lbs, 3 oz, caught in Romania), and attain sexual maturity about their third year. Carp have even been known to live more than 40 years in captivity. Some people think carp are one of the easier fish to catch… this couldn't be farther from the truth. Carp have excellent hearing, as well as eyesight, making them a challenging pursuit.
In the past several years I have made it a point to visit a local river that holds an excellent population of some big carp. There's something really exciting about wading upstream behind a mud cloud being made by a feeding carp. Now is the time to put the same stalking tactics used for trout to work. One bad move or kicking of a stone will result in a rocketing carp making a getaway! The ideal position to cast from is either side of the fish, and remember: “low and slow!” Stay well behind and make sure to keep the leader and line from splashing down above the fish. That's why fishing off to the sides is an important thing to do. Polarized glasses are highly recommended. Being able to see the fish will drastically improve your success rate.
An 8-9 wt fly rod with a nice sized reel loaded up with plenty of backing will do. I like to use an 8 ft leader, 10-12 lb, and I use a small split shot about a foot or two above the fly. This makes sure the fly will settle down on the bottom. Clothing is also very important; wear a drab shirt and hat, and leave the bright attire at home. Most of the time you will be only 10-15 ft away, and remember carp have great eyesight!
Now for the flies I use with very good success. My first choice is a fly I started using several years ago, after acquiring several nice 12-16” eel skins from a tyer at one of the fly-tying symposiums. Eel skin is great for many fly applications due to its flowing, life-like movement when wet and it's smell. Carp, besides having great sight and hearing, also have an excellent sense of smell. If you can find eel skin (it is available, but you really have to look), you might want to try this fly I have named “carp sushi.”
Hook: I use Mustad 3366 #6-8, but any short-shanked strong hook will work
Thread: Black 6/0
Tail: Two V-shaped slips of eel skin (to make the eel tie on easier, moisten skin where it will be tied on)
Under Body: Several wraps of lead wire
Body: Bill's Wooly Bugger maribou chenille (Bill Skilton – USA Flies)
Wings: Two more eel skin slips, half the length of tail
Collar: Brown hackle
When wet, this fly has great life-like movement. Even at rest it is effective due to the smell of the eel skin. If you can't find eel skin, you can substitute this fly with several other “hot” carp flies, another being “Clouser's Darter” pattern (designed by Bob Clouser).
Hook: TMC 811S
Thread: Olive 6/0
Body/tail: Orange dyed calf's tail
Over-wing: Gold flashabou and red krystal flash
Wing: Olive calf's tail
Eyes: Black lead barbel eyes
My prediction for the future of fly-fishing for carp is bright, due to the challenge of landing a 10+ lb fish on a fly, as well as the fact that carp can be found in most rivers, ponds, and lakes. So, get out there and remember, “low and slow”, and hang on tight when hooking those freshwater bones! Much luck!
Brad Wilson has been fly fishing and tying in the mountains of Pennsylvania for 18 years. Two fly tying mentors had a big influence on his tying more than anyone, George Harvey and Paul Jorgensen. He has had several articles published and plans on continuing to write about the sport he loves.
Tuesday, September 21, 2010
River Jigs are Bass Candy (SFM March 2010)
From the March 2010 issue of Susquehanna Fishing Magazine:
http://susquehannafishing.com/
By Bryan Wilhelm
Pursuing bass with rod and reel is my favorite pastime. Over the years I have had many opportunities to fish for these water-born athletes… and when I’m fishing a river, I always try some kind of a jig. A jig is a hook with a heavy cast metal head, usually lead, most often painted and assembled with some form of dressing.
When I was a young man, my dad would make most of our family’s tackle needs at home. It was a craft at which dad excelled. He did this not only for enjoyment, but because he was able to make many lures that were not available any other way at that time. I have followed in his shadow. But for me… jigs have become an obsession. Today, there are many sources and many choices both in materials and molds for jig making.
The attributes of great river bass jigs are, they:
• Have features that trigger fish to strike
• Are inexpensive and made with available materials
• Look great and are ready to fish
• Are confidence, go to lures
• Can be fished productively with few hang-ups
When you make your own jigs, you can pick the components that work for your river and fishing conditions. Making jigs is well worth the expense and effort, as you can produce some awesome fish-catching jigs.
In this and future articles I will describe some good and bad features of many jig styles. I will highlight how to select head shapes… and match them to body designs and materials for optimum performance. I will include details of how to fish jigs. Plus, I will provide information to help you select the right jigs for different fishing situations.
The round head jig is the most widely sold jig for fresh water. It has universal acceptance for that reason, but it often hangs up on the bottom. It’s good for tackle sales, but frustrating to the angler. The round head jig can be improved by selecting a body or live bait that will help overcome its shortfall.
Fig. 1: 1/8 oz. undressed ball head jig…
best fished with a minnow.
The wooly bugger jig (below) has a marabou tailing for movement and a soft hackle collar full length to stabilize the jig on the bottom while emulating aquatic insects for enhanced attraction. This would be a good color choice in clear water conditions.
Fig. 2: 1/8 oz. Wooly bugger jig …
a good body design choice for the ball jig head. It can be fished as is or with live bait (like: minnows, leaches or half a crawler).
Another great live bait jig is the Walleye Jig. It has an oval head shape that makes it a disaster to fish alone…but the Walleye jig excels when fished with a minnow.
Here’s its secret…
As soon as the walleye jig lure hits bottom…it wants to roll over on its side. The attached minnow works continually to stay upright. The minnow’s continuous movement attracts fish and triggers bites.
Fig. 3: ¼ oz. Walleye jig of muted colors of deer & black bear hair with later line for flash... Good choice for clear water.
Fig. 4: ¼ oz. Walleye jig with bright color deer hair and flash… An appropriate color & flash choice for stained water.
To make life simple…clear water is when I can see my lure at a foot or greater depth. Stained water is anything less.
Adding an L arm spinner (like a beetle spin) to any jig will add vibrations that attract fish when water clarity is poor.
I fish jigs on 5-6’ fast action, light power, graphite, spinning rods with a 2500 series reel spooled with 10-15 pound test bright yellow, super braid line with 6 feet of 6 or 8 pound fluorocarbon leaders attached with back to back uni-knots.
Fishing close ensures fewer snags.
So, that all for now. In later articles I will cover material selection, jig design, building techniques and more.
Tight lines... Bryan Wilhelm
Bryan Wilhelm is a multi-species light tackle angler with many years experience both as a professional and a sportsman on the lower Susquehanna River. His zeal for fishing grows each passing year. We look forward to him sharing his experiences.
http://susquehannafishing.com/
By Bryan Wilhelm
Pursuing bass with rod and reel is my favorite pastime. Over the years I have had many opportunities to fish for these water-born athletes… and when I’m fishing a river, I always try some kind of a jig. A jig is a hook with a heavy cast metal head, usually lead, most often painted and assembled with some form of dressing.
When I was a young man, my dad would make most of our family’s tackle needs at home. It was a craft at which dad excelled. He did this not only for enjoyment, but because he was able to make many lures that were not available any other way at that time. I have followed in his shadow. But for me… jigs have become an obsession. Today, there are many sources and many choices both in materials and molds for jig making.
The attributes of great river bass jigs are, they:
• Have features that trigger fish to strike
• Are inexpensive and made with available materials
• Look great and are ready to fish
• Are confidence, go to lures
• Can be fished productively with few hang-ups
When you make your own jigs, you can pick the components that work for your river and fishing conditions. Making jigs is well worth the expense and effort, as you can produce some awesome fish-catching jigs.
In this and future articles I will describe some good and bad features of many jig styles. I will highlight how to select head shapes… and match them to body designs and materials for optimum performance. I will include details of how to fish jigs. Plus, I will provide information to help you select the right jigs for different fishing situations.
The round head jig is the most widely sold jig for fresh water. It has universal acceptance for that reason, but it often hangs up on the bottom. It’s good for tackle sales, but frustrating to the angler. The round head jig can be improved by selecting a body or live bait that will help overcome its shortfall.
Fig. 1: 1/8 oz. undressed ball head jig…
best fished with a minnow.
The wooly bugger jig (below) has a marabou tailing for movement and a soft hackle collar full length to stabilize the jig on the bottom while emulating aquatic insects for enhanced attraction. This would be a good color choice in clear water conditions.
Fig. 2: 1/8 oz. Wooly bugger jig …
a good body design choice for the ball jig head. It can be fished as is or with live bait (like: minnows, leaches or half a crawler).
Another great live bait jig is the Walleye Jig. It has an oval head shape that makes it a disaster to fish alone…but the Walleye jig excels when fished with a minnow.
Here’s its secret…
As soon as the walleye jig lure hits bottom…it wants to roll over on its side. The attached minnow works continually to stay upright. The minnow’s continuous movement attracts fish and triggers bites.
Fig. 3: ¼ oz. Walleye jig of muted colors of deer & black bear hair with later line for flash... Good choice for clear water.
Fig. 4: ¼ oz. Walleye jig with bright color deer hair and flash… An appropriate color & flash choice for stained water.
To make life simple…clear water is when I can see my lure at a foot or greater depth. Stained water is anything less.
Adding an L arm spinner (like a beetle spin) to any jig will add vibrations that attract fish when water clarity is poor.
I fish jigs on 5-6’ fast action, light power, graphite, spinning rods with a 2500 series reel spooled with 10-15 pound test bright yellow, super braid line with 6 feet of 6 or 8 pound fluorocarbon leaders attached with back to back uni-knots.
Fishing close ensures fewer snags.
So, that all for now. In later articles I will cover material selection, jig design, building techniques and more.
Tight lines... Bryan Wilhelm
Bryan Wilhelm is a multi-species light tackle angler with many years experience both as a professional and a sportsman on the lower Susquehanna River. His zeal for fishing grows each passing year. We look forward to him sharing his experiences.
Monday, September 20, 2010
KOINONIA GUIDE SERVICE SUSQUEHANNA FISHING REPORT: 09/18/10
Hi Gang,
The river was at 3.1 with 4,200CF of flow and 66 degrees at the beginning of the week and at the end of the week we had 3.0 with 4,000CF of flow and 74 degrees. The BP was 30.50 and steady.
1. Trip #1 – Guide Scouting Trip – This was on Monday evening and we fished from 8:00 PM to 1:30 AM and we boated 12 Flathead. The largest was 29.4# and we caught them all on live bait. We had 3.1 – Clear – Steady – 4,300 CF and 65 degrees. It was calm and we had a BP of 30.20 and rising.
2. Trip #2 – Guide Scouting Trip – This was on Tuesday and we fished from 2:30 PM to 7:30 PM and we boated 16 White Perch, 1 largemouth and 1 sunfish. The largest Perch was 12” and the Largemouth was 12”. We caught them on all on a worm harness. This was on a local lake. We had 3.0 – Clear - 4,100 CF and 66 degrees. It was clear and we had a BP of 30.24 & Steady.
3. Trip #3 – Guide Trip – This was a half day PM Trip on Friday and we boated 9 Bass and 2 Walleye. The largest bass was 18” and the largest Walleye was 18” as well. We caught them on Rattle Baits, Rebel Wee Craw and Spinner Baits. We had 3.1 – Steady - Clear – 4,000CF and 66-71 degrees. It was extremely windy and we had a BP of 30.30 and rising.
4. Trip #4 – Guide Trip – This was a Saturday PM Catfish Trip and we boated 8 Flatheads and the largest was 18.3#. We caught them all on live bait. We had 3.0 – Clear – Steady - 4,000CF and 74 degrees. It was cool and we had a BP of 30.50 and steady.
5. Trip #4 – No Trip
6. We thought we were getting Dave’s new boat on Saturday but it was not 100% so we are hopeful we will have it this week. We have put extra thought into this design to specifically aide us in our Catfish Trips.
7. Please write the Fish and Boat Commission and express your concerns to them. We can provide you with email addresses if you need them.
8. The last couple bass trips we are picking up a few walleye and the majority of them have been over 15”.
9. We currently have a good bite going for white perch for those of you who are interested in some good eating fish.
HAVE A GREAT WEEK AND LUV THE TUG………REB
Visit the Koinonia Guide Service online:
http://www.koinoniafishingguides.com/
The river was at 3.1 with 4,200CF of flow and 66 degrees at the beginning of the week and at the end of the week we had 3.0 with 4,000CF of flow and 74 degrees. The BP was 30.50 and steady.
1. Trip #1 – Guide Scouting Trip – This was on Monday evening and we fished from 8:00 PM to 1:30 AM and we boated 12 Flathead. The largest was 29.4# and we caught them all on live bait. We had 3.1 – Clear – Steady – 4,300 CF and 65 degrees. It was calm and we had a BP of 30.20 and rising.
2. Trip #2 – Guide Scouting Trip – This was on Tuesday and we fished from 2:30 PM to 7:30 PM and we boated 16 White Perch, 1 largemouth and 1 sunfish. The largest Perch was 12” and the Largemouth was 12”. We caught them on all on a worm harness. This was on a local lake. We had 3.0 – Clear - 4,100 CF and 66 degrees. It was clear and we had a BP of 30.24 & Steady.
3. Trip #3 – Guide Trip – This was a half day PM Trip on Friday and we boated 9 Bass and 2 Walleye. The largest bass was 18” and the largest Walleye was 18” as well. We caught them on Rattle Baits, Rebel Wee Craw and Spinner Baits. We had 3.1 – Steady - Clear – 4,000CF and 66-71 degrees. It was extremely windy and we had a BP of 30.30 and rising.
4. Trip #4 – Guide Trip – This was a Saturday PM Catfish Trip and we boated 8 Flatheads and the largest was 18.3#. We caught them all on live bait. We had 3.0 – Clear – Steady - 4,000CF and 74 degrees. It was cool and we had a BP of 30.50 and steady.
5. Trip #4 – No Trip
6. We thought we were getting Dave’s new boat on Saturday but it was not 100% so we are hopeful we will have it this week. We have put extra thought into this design to specifically aide us in our Catfish Trips.
7. Please write the Fish and Boat Commission and express your concerns to them. We can provide you with email addresses if you need them.
8. The last couple bass trips we are picking up a few walleye and the majority of them have been over 15”.
9. We currently have a good bite going for white perch for those of you who are interested in some good eating fish.
HAVE A GREAT WEEK AND LUV THE TUG………REB
Visit the Koinonia Guide Service online:
http://www.koinoniafishingguides.com/
Saturday, September 18, 2010
The Susquehanna Fish of 10,000 Casts (SFM, March 2010)
From the March 2010 issue of Susquehanna Fishing Magazine:
http://susquehannafishing.com/
Visit SusquehannaFishing.com to view the current and all back issues for free!
By Rich Buchinski
How many casts does it take to catch a musky? 100? 1,000? 10,000? This old saying scares most fishermen from even attempting to target musky for an entire fishing trip. Fishless hours, days, and even weeks are common for some anglers trying to catch a musky. It doesn’t have to be this way. We have one of the best musky fisheries in our backyard! No need to travel to Wisconsin or Canada to catch one of these mysterious fish. With a little homework and preparation an angler can very well have a good chance of catching a musky every fishing trip on the Susquehanna River.
Keep in mind that a musky is one of the top predators in the food chain. This means that they are not as plentiful as bass or walleye. But just like any other fish, they must eat to survive. Any serious musky angler knows to expect days without catching a fish, but they also know there will be days of catching multiple fish. There are basically three key factors an angler needs to be aware of to catch a musky: #1 Location, #2 Presentation, and #3 Timing.
First, Location- The location of musky on a river system such as the Susquehanna River seems overwhelming at first. Not so. They are much easier to pinpoint than a lake-dwelling musky. The most important aspect of locating musky is by far current. Muskies do not like current, but remember current is a relative term here. Unlike smallmouth bass which may hold in rapids, musky shy away from rapids or high current areas. Look for areas of slack water, such as bridge pilings, the backside of an island, downed timber, wing dams, or feeder streams entering the main river. When the river rises, fish move to the banks to escape the current, when it falls, they move towards the main channel to avoid being trapped in backwater areas. Any object that creates a break in the main flow of the river can be considered a current break and a possible ambush spot for these predators. Another key factor when looking for current breaks is depth. My rule is that if you can see the bottom, it usually is not a good spot as if you can see the fish they surely can see you. Plus, big fish tend to stay close to areas where they can retreat to deeper water and escape danger quickly.
Second, Presentation- Just like fishing for any other species, such as bass, walleye, etc., lure selection and presentation is important. Big fish eat big baits, so you must upgrade your equipment, using bigger lures and tackle. Muskies are predators and strike lures hard, even in cold water with the right presentation. Some days it takes a slower moving bait to provoke a strike, other days it takes a fast moving bait to get a reaction from the fish. Musky tend to be moody and may become very picky at times. When nothing’s working, don’t be afraid to experiment and think outside the box.
Third, Timing- Timing is everything when it comes to musky. I can’t tell you how many times I have fished a particular spot all morning with nothing to show for it, only to come back in the afternoon and catch multiple fish in the exact same spot. Were the fish holding there the entire time? Did the fish move into that area in the afternoon? It’s hard to say, but what I can tell you that if you fish a spot and see a musky follow your lure to the boat that doesn’t strike, you need to have a plan. Quickly change a lure, whether it be the color or a different lure entirely and make a few more accurate casts to the area where the fish was last seen. Nothing? Next thing to do, leave! I know it’s hard to leave an area after you have searched for hours to locate a fish but do it. You have just succeeded at the hardest part of musky fishing, finding one. The worst thing you can do is camp in that spot and pressure the fish by making repeated casts in the area. You now have two choices: you can return in a half hour or my favorite, wait until something changes. It may be as subtle as the wind shifting directions or a few clouds rolling in that makes the day a little cloudy. In the fall it may be the water temperature warming from the midday sun. This is when the fish you have seen earlier may be ready to eat and all of your hard works pays off!
Just remember, if you’re brave enough to fish for musky, be prepared. Once you meet one of these mysterious predators up close and personal, you may never be the same. Some call it a disease, some call it an addiction; either way you look at it you will find yourself buying more and more lures, new fishing rods and reels, and constantly thinking about your next visit to the river. Remember to always release the king of the river to fight another day so we can all have an opportunity to share and experience the mystique of the musky.
Rich Buchinski is a fully licensed Pennsylvania Fishing guide specializing in musky on the North Branch of the Susquehanna River.
Angelo Cristofolo with a Susquehanna Musky!
http://susquehannafishing.com/
Visit SusquehannaFishing.com to view the current and all back issues for free!
By Rich Buchinski
How many casts does it take to catch a musky? 100? 1,000? 10,000? This old saying scares most fishermen from even attempting to target musky for an entire fishing trip. Fishless hours, days, and even weeks are common for some anglers trying to catch a musky. It doesn’t have to be this way. We have one of the best musky fisheries in our backyard! No need to travel to Wisconsin or Canada to catch one of these mysterious fish. With a little homework and preparation an angler can very well have a good chance of catching a musky every fishing trip on the Susquehanna River.
Keep in mind that a musky is one of the top predators in the food chain. This means that they are not as plentiful as bass or walleye. But just like any other fish, they must eat to survive. Any serious musky angler knows to expect days without catching a fish, but they also know there will be days of catching multiple fish. There are basically three key factors an angler needs to be aware of to catch a musky: #1 Location, #2 Presentation, and #3 Timing.
First, Location- The location of musky on a river system such as the Susquehanna River seems overwhelming at first. Not so. They are much easier to pinpoint than a lake-dwelling musky. The most important aspect of locating musky is by far current. Muskies do not like current, but remember current is a relative term here. Unlike smallmouth bass which may hold in rapids, musky shy away from rapids or high current areas. Look for areas of slack water, such as bridge pilings, the backside of an island, downed timber, wing dams, or feeder streams entering the main river. When the river rises, fish move to the banks to escape the current, when it falls, they move towards the main channel to avoid being trapped in backwater areas. Any object that creates a break in the main flow of the river can be considered a current break and a possible ambush spot for these predators. Another key factor when looking for current breaks is depth. My rule is that if you can see the bottom, it usually is not a good spot as if you can see the fish they surely can see you. Plus, big fish tend to stay close to areas where they can retreat to deeper water and escape danger quickly.
Second, Presentation- Just like fishing for any other species, such as bass, walleye, etc., lure selection and presentation is important. Big fish eat big baits, so you must upgrade your equipment, using bigger lures and tackle. Muskies are predators and strike lures hard, even in cold water with the right presentation. Some days it takes a slower moving bait to provoke a strike, other days it takes a fast moving bait to get a reaction from the fish. Musky tend to be moody and may become very picky at times. When nothing’s working, don’t be afraid to experiment and think outside the box.
Third, Timing- Timing is everything when it comes to musky. I can’t tell you how many times I have fished a particular spot all morning with nothing to show for it, only to come back in the afternoon and catch multiple fish in the exact same spot. Were the fish holding there the entire time? Did the fish move into that area in the afternoon? It’s hard to say, but what I can tell you that if you fish a spot and see a musky follow your lure to the boat that doesn’t strike, you need to have a plan. Quickly change a lure, whether it be the color or a different lure entirely and make a few more accurate casts to the area where the fish was last seen. Nothing? Next thing to do, leave! I know it’s hard to leave an area after you have searched for hours to locate a fish but do it. You have just succeeded at the hardest part of musky fishing, finding one. The worst thing you can do is camp in that spot and pressure the fish by making repeated casts in the area. You now have two choices: you can return in a half hour or my favorite, wait until something changes. It may be as subtle as the wind shifting directions or a few clouds rolling in that makes the day a little cloudy. In the fall it may be the water temperature warming from the midday sun. This is when the fish you have seen earlier may be ready to eat and all of your hard works pays off!
Just remember, if you’re brave enough to fish for musky, be prepared. Once you meet one of these mysterious predators up close and personal, you may never be the same. Some call it a disease, some call it an addiction; either way you look at it you will find yourself buying more and more lures, new fishing rods and reels, and constantly thinking about your next visit to the river. Remember to always release the king of the river to fight another day so we can all have an opportunity to share and experience the mystique of the musky.
Rich Buchinski is a fully licensed Pennsylvania Fishing guide specializing in musky on the North Branch of the Susquehanna River.
Angelo Cristofolo with a Susquehanna Musky!
Friday, September 17, 2010
Kayak Fly Fishing the “River”, No Cast Technique (SFM, Sept. 2010)
From the September 2010 issue of Susquehanna Fishing Magazine:
http://susquehannafishing.com/
View the current and all back issues online for FREE!!!
By Hank Hewitt
Perhaps no other angling method has more confusion, or misconception about it than fly fishing. There’s no question that this method of angling often falls prey to an elitist, exclusive, contingent. Why that is I can only speculate and we’ll save that speculation for another day. In this article we’re going to focus on two practical tools that when combined are highly successful at bringing fish to net, often when no other approach will.
The two tools which we’ll be addressing are first the kayak as an angling platform, and second, the use of the fly rod fished from the kayak. Before we move on, and so you know where I’m coming from, when I go fishing I go fishing to catch fish. I look at my rods, reels, lures, flies, and kayaks, as tools used to achieve my angling ends, that being, to catch fish. My focus is to be well versed enough with my tools that regardless of the conditions I have the right implement, and know how to use it to get the job done. Unfortunately when fly fishing gets brought into the mix many fall to a common misconception that the cast catches the fish. Well, I’ve yet to see a fish swoop down out of a tree to eat a fly. So many fly anglers often get so caught up in how their fly is getting to the water that they don’t focus on what the fly is doing once it’s in or on the water. It’s my purpose in this article to explain how to fish the fly rod from the kayak while keeping casting to a minimum so as to keep the focus on effectively fishing, and ultimately catching. Yes, when stationary on foot, distance casting is often necessary. Well, when one is in a kayak, the kayak cuts down the distance to the fish, and in the case of river fishing the kayak often moves right over where the fish are eating. Because we are dealing with river fishing, fishing from the kayak, and using the fly rod, let’s keep things simple and first address the water types, then the use of the kayak, and last a simple effective way to present a “fly rod lure” to the fish in these areas.
I love fishing rivers because of the variety of ways the water moves, and the potential areas to find fish. There are long slow-moving stretches of water… What we’ll call a “pool”. Then there are the shallow broken water stretches that for our purposes we’ll call “runs”. Runs, which are usually associated with elevation changes eventually transition to pools. The transition area we’ll call “tail outs”. I’m not a gambling man as I have nothing to loose, however if I were to wager that I could catch a fish on the fly rod in one fly cast, from the kayak, on any given summer/fall day, the place I would say I could do this is where the broken water of a run transitions to a tail out, eventually slowing in velocity to the head of a pool. I did say one cast, and yes with the fly rod while fishing from the kayak, one cast could be worked effectively, well over a few hundred yards. Let’s look at handling the kayak.
There are a multitude of virtues about a kayak as a fishing platform on flowing water. For me, the primary virtue is that the kayak easily floats through water depths measured in inches, and does so quietly. Here’s the technique I use in the kayak to set my drift. First and foremost, keep in mind that when drifting through moving water in the kayak, I drift stern, back end first. So as I come up on the broken water I first address the water from a forward-facing position. This is done so as to see any rocks or obstructions in my path that could possibly be a hazard. Once I have corrected my course to avoid obstructions I spin the kayak so I am drifting stern-first. My paddle will eventually be set in my lap so I can handle the fishing rod, usually the fly rod. There will be some current formations that may spin or twist the kayak one way or another. To correct positioning I’ll keep the rod in its normal hand and with the no rod hand grab the paddle. I’ll use my rod hand elbow to brace the paddle across my body, and either push or pull the paddle on my non-rod hand side through the water to correct my drift. After a bit of practice it becomes quite easy. That’s the extent of kayak handling needed to drift the moving water. Let’s now look at the use of the fly rod in this situation.
Here’s a quick overview of the fly rod and the fly line I’m using. My preferred weight rod for the river is a 9’ 8wt fly rod. It can handle a good range of weighted or wind resistant flies. It can also handle smaller flies. It also has enough backbone to handle smallies measured in pounds, and the occasional carp, channel cat, and possible musky. Last I can still pull the kayak up before a shallow rapid and get out to fish the fly rod on foot if I so choose. The fly line I use is a “weight-forward” floating fly line. In fly fishing terms it is written like this,
WF8-F. The WF stands for weight-forward, the 8 is the weight of rod, and the F is floating. Fly lines have tapers. The diameter of line, front to back, tapers from a thin diameter called the “tip” to a thicker diameter, which is called the “head”. The head will eventually taper back down to a thin diameter and this is called the “running line”. There seems to be a million and one tapers on the market. For the technique we’re discussing here any WF8-F line will suffice. The fly line where it goes on the reel attaches to backing. Reels are sized by the weight of line they can hold. Some reels are designed to hold a range of line weights. The fly reel should have at least 200 yards of backing on it. That’s not to say you’ll need that much backing, but it is important in how the fly line wraps on the spool. Dacron backing is the conventional running line used, however, I have gone to using 20# tensile Power Pro as backing. Doing this I get pretty close to 300yards of backing on the reel due to its thin diameter. At the forward most tip of the fly line, a tapered leader gets attached. The leader I tie is 4’ of 50# mono, to 2’ of 35# mono to a tip section of 8# mono 3’ long. I use uni-to-uni knots in the construction of the leaders. That’s a brief over view of my normal Susky kayak set up for the fly rod. Let’s get back to fishing it from the yak…
At this point we’ll address the fly. Actually, what I’m using in the runs through the tailouts is a wet fly tied on a 1/32 ounce jig head. See the recipe that accompanies the article. The 8wt fly rod has no problem tossing the weight of this presentation, when I decide to cast. It’s tied to look like any number of critters or bait fish that the fish in the river will see as food. All one needs to do once the kayak is set on the drift is to pull about 5’ of fly line out of the fly rod. Drop the jig and line onto the water. Strip about 10’-20’ of line off the reel as you drift back and shake it out of the rod tip onto the water. Always watch where the leader meets the fly line. When that dips under the water use the rod tip to straighten the line and get tight to the jig because at this point the jig is connecting with the bottom. Simply lay the fly line, coming off the reel, under the index finger of the hand that is on the rod, and strip or hold the line with your off hand behind the index finger of your rod hand. You should occasionally feel the jig contact the bottom. When this happens quickly strip line in using very short quick 2” long strips until you no longer feel the bottom. You could also lightly twitch the rod tip up. I prefer the stripping technique. As the water gets deeper, shake out more line. Keep in mind that the leader is 9’ long. It’s simple to get the jig into the kitchen of the fish in quickly flowing water 4-10 feet deep.
So now you’re jig is down in the column, it looks like hapless food adrift through your quarries’ kitchens. It comes across the nose of a 3# smallie, and it breathes it in, now what? Well, the first thing you feel is a breath taking thud. Provided you have the line locked under that index finger and your other hand holding the line, the rod will double over and start convulsing violently, your kayak will get spun around in circles or pulled in various directions. You can do one of two things to gain line on the fish. If it’s a bigger fish it will run line out until the point that the line is coming straight off the reel. Fight the fish as you would any fish from the reel. Sometimes though when the fish goes to run it pulls you in the kayak before pulling out line. So just gain line back by pulling line across your index finger, and close that finger to lock the line to reset the hand pulling the line. I suggest having a decent sized net in the kayak with you to scoop up the pooped fish. It only takes a few 2#-4# smallies on the fly rod, while catching them from the yak, to make the day.
If you have a fly rod, and get a chance to drift the river in a kayak, try this technique with any 1/32 ounce or smaller ice fishing jig, and hold on. If you have any questions e-mail me at antoutfitters@gmail.com.
Tight lines, screaming reels, and safe paddling!
Hank Hewitt is a guide for Anthracite Outfitters, and owner of HCH3 Photographic Productions, LLC.
http://susquehannafishing.com/
View the current and all back issues online for FREE!!!
By Hank Hewitt
Perhaps no other angling method has more confusion, or misconception about it than fly fishing. There’s no question that this method of angling often falls prey to an elitist, exclusive, contingent. Why that is I can only speculate and we’ll save that speculation for another day. In this article we’re going to focus on two practical tools that when combined are highly successful at bringing fish to net, often when no other approach will.
The two tools which we’ll be addressing are first the kayak as an angling platform, and second, the use of the fly rod fished from the kayak. Before we move on, and so you know where I’m coming from, when I go fishing I go fishing to catch fish. I look at my rods, reels, lures, flies, and kayaks, as tools used to achieve my angling ends, that being, to catch fish. My focus is to be well versed enough with my tools that regardless of the conditions I have the right implement, and know how to use it to get the job done. Unfortunately when fly fishing gets brought into the mix many fall to a common misconception that the cast catches the fish. Well, I’ve yet to see a fish swoop down out of a tree to eat a fly. So many fly anglers often get so caught up in how their fly is getting to the water that they don’t focus on what the fly is doing once it’s in or on the water. It’s my purpose in this article to explain how to fish the fly rod from the kayak while keeping casting to a minimum so as to keep the focus on effectively fishing, and ultimately catching. Yes, when stationary on foot, distance casting is often necessary. Well, when one is in a kayak, the kayak cuts down the distance to the fish, and in the case of river fishing the kayak often moves right over where the fish are eating. Because we are dealing with river fishing, fishing from the kayak, and using the fly rod, let’s keep things simple and first address the water types, then the use of the kayak, and last a simple effective way to present a “fly rod lure” to the fish in these areas.
I love fishing rivers because of the variety of ways the water moves, and the potential areas to find fish. There are long slow-moving stretches of water… What we’ll call a “pool”. Then there are the shallow broken water stretches that for our purposes we’ll call “runs”. Runs, which are usually associated with elevation changes eventually transition to pools. The transition area we’ll call “tail outs”. I’m not a gambling man as I have nothing to loose, however if I were to wager that I could catch a fish on the fly rod in one fly cast, from the kayak, on any given summer/fall day, the place I would say I could do this is where the broken water of a run transitions to a tail out, eventually slowing in velocity to the head of a pool. I did say one cast, and yes with the fly rod while fishing from the kayak, one cast could be worked effectively, well over a few hundred yards. Let’s look at handling the kayak.
There are a multitude of virtues about a kayak as a fishing platform on flowing water. For me, the primary virtue is that the kayak easily floats through water depths measured in inches, and does so quietly. Here’s the technique I use in the kayak to set my drift. First and foremost, keep in mind that when drifting through moving water in the kayak, I drift stern, back end first. So as I come up on the broken water I first address the water from a forward-facing position. This is done so as to see any rocks or obstructions in my path that could possibly be a hazard. Once I have corrected my course to avoid obstructions I spin the kayak so I am drifting stern-first. My paddle will eventually be set in my lap so I can handle the fishing rod, usually the fly rod. There will be some current formations that may spin or twist the kayak one way or another. To correct positioning I’ll keep the rod in its normal hand and with the no rod hand grab the paddle. I’ll use my rod hand elbow to brace the paddle across my body, and either push or pull the paddle on my non-rod hand side through the water to correct my drift. After a bit of practice it becomes quite easy. That’s the extent of kayak handling needed to drift the moving water. Let’s now look at the use of the fly rod in this situation.
Here’s a quick overview of the fly rod and the fly line I’m using. My preferred weight rod for the river is a 9’ 8wt fly rod. It can handle a good range of weighted or wind resistant flies. It can also handle smaller flies. It also has enough backbone to handle smallies measured in pounds, and the occasional carp, channel cat, and possible musky. Last I can still pull the kayak up before a shallow rapid and get out to fish the fly rod on foot if I so choose. The fly line I use is a “weight-forward” floating fly line. In fly fishing terms it is written like this,
WF8-F. The WF stands for weight-forward, the 8 is the weight of rod, and the F is floating. Fly lines have tapers. The diameter of line, front to back, tapers from a thin diameter called the “tip” to a thicker diameter, which is called the “head”. The head will eventually taper back down to a thin diameter and this is called the “running line”. There seems to be a million and one tapers on the market. For the technique we’re discussing here any WF8-F line will suffice. The fly line where it goes on the reel attaches to backing. Reels are sized by the weight of line they can hold. Some reels are designed to hold a range of line weights. The fly reel should have at least 200 yards of backing on it. That’s not to say you’ll need that much backing, but it is important in how the fly line wraps on the spool. Dacron backing is the conventional running line used, however, I have gone to using 20# tensile Power Pro as backing. Doing this I get pretty close to 300yards of backing on the reel due to its thin diameter. At the forward most tip of the fly line, a tapered leader gets attached. The leader I tie is 4’ of 50# mono, to 2’ of 35# mono to a tip section of 8# mono 3’ long. I use uni-to-uni knots in the construction of the leaders. That’s a brief over view of my normal Susky kayak set up for the fly rod. Let’s get back to fishing it from the yak…
At this point we’ll address the fly. Actually, what I’m using in the runs through the tailouts is a wet fly tied on a 1/32 ounce jig head. See the recipe that accompanies the article. The 8wt fly rod has no problem tossing the weight of this presentation, when I decide to cast. It’s tied to look like any number of critters or bait fish that the fish in the river will see as food. All one needs to do once the kayak is set on the drift is to pull about 5’ of fly line out of the fly rod. Drop the jig and line onto the water. Strip about 10’-20’ of line off the reel as you drift back and shake it out of the rod tip onto the water. Always watch where the leader meets the fly line. When that dips under the water use the rod tip to straighten the line and get tight to the jig because at this point the jig is connecting with the bottom. Simply lay the fly line, coming off the reel, under the index finger of the hand that is on the rod, and strip or hold the line with your off hand behind the index finger of your rod hand. You should occasionally feel the jig contact the bottom. When this happens quickly strip line in using very short quick 2” long strips until you no longer feel the bottom. You could also lightly twitch the rod tip up. I prefer the stripping technique. As the water gets deeper, shake out more line. Keep in mind that the leader is 9’ long. It’s simple to get the jig into the kitchen of the fish in quickly flowing water 4-10 feet deep.
So now you’re jig is down in the column, it looks like hapless food adrift through your quarries’ kitchens. It comes across the nose of a 3# smallie, and it breathes it in, now what? Well, the first thing you feel is a breath taking thud. Provided you have the line locked under that index finger and your other hand holding the line, the rod will double over and start convulsing violently, your kayak will get spun around in circles or pulled in various directions. You can do one of two things to gain line on the fish. If it’s a bigger fish it will run line out until the point that the line is coming straight off the reel. Fight the fish as you would any fish from the reel. Sometimes though when the fish goes to run it pulls you in the kayak before pulling out line. So just gain line back by pulling line across your index finger, and close that finger to lock the line to reset the hand pulling the line. I suggest having a decent sized net in the kayak with you to scoop up the pooped fish. It only takes a few 2#-4# smallies on the fly rod, while catching them from the yak, to make the day.
If you have a fly rod, and get a chance to drift the river in a kayak, try this technique with any 1/32 ounce or smaller ice fishing jig, and hold on. If you have any questions e-mail me at antoutfitters@gmail.com.
Tight lines, screaming reels, and safe paddling!
Hank Hewitt is a guide for Anthracite Outfitters, and owner of HCH3 Photographic Productions, LLC.
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